Vilnius, Lithuania...18th June

As mentioned in an earlier blog I was in Vilnius in 2014 but only reached my hotel at 11.30pm and had to leave by 6.30am the next day. 
What I do remember from that trip was fleetingly driving past Soviet era modernist architecture and the bell tower of the cathedral. I saw this last night (a picture posted yesterday evening) which is close to my current hotel.

I'm staying in the same street over looking the cathedral as the previous hotel but I just couldn't remember the name of the previous one: it was booked for me and I just had to remember to bring the hotel details with me... (it is called the Kempinski... ).

As for the Soviet era modernist architecture, this is something I wanted to see again. I visited the RIBA bookshop in June and saw a book on Lithuanian Soviet Architecture (these are the arcane titles the bookshop does well in stocking). I didn't buy it assuming that coming here I would be able to see this for myself. Well, this has been much harder than i expected..

So, the purpose of visiting Vilnius was to see a little more of the city and if possible locate the modernist architecture seen in 2014.

The weather has been been fantastic. Having driven from a wet and dreary Riga yesterday, last night was clear and today has been warm (26 degrees) with a fresh breeze.
Sorry Riga, the weather was against you...

Immediate opinions are how green the city centre is, how well maintained the roads are (sorry again Riga, they are so much better...) and a confidence in the city. Buildings are being re-furbished and the new commercial centre is being expanded with multiple sites currently under construction. The river in the centre doesn't appear to be utilised although a large area is being developed for communal sports facilities. I
Immediate impressions are that I like this city a lot...

The recent history of Lithuania and Vilnius has been complex and not without problems. All these can be read via Wikipedia or other sources. As mentioned in my introduction to this blog, I make no comments on social and political issues when visiting countries. My time in each does not enable me to pass judgements. I can only express my experiences of the time spent in each place....


City Centre & Trees:

Avenue trees have been retained or re-planted. It makes such a difference to the city environment.. Note to London and other cities; don't lopp trees just because they may drop sap on cars.. remove cars...

Commercial Centre;

Without knowing the city planning structure, most contemporary commercial buildings are being constructed on the opposite bank to the main city.. Good quality, with shopping arcades, parking (lots of...) and well known investor brands.. There will be casualties but this is between the city and its inhabitants; not for me to give an opinion when only visiting for two days...
My only comment is that Vilnius had a world renowned group of Architects in the 1980's The design of the commercial buildings are good but could be located in any western city.
Most likely this is the driver.. but blending historical context to design makes cities unique..

Adjacent are those likely to be dispossessed... these timber buildings are immediately adjacent to next development site and across the street from the multi-story commercial buildings

City Centre;

There is a great collection of architectural styles, from the late 19C to the present. The overall blend of multiple architectural styles on a street, an example being Drabuzial Avalyne, really enriches the city. Even the harsh Soviet classical style can't depress the overall sense of magic. 

A small reminder of 1930's modernist architecture...

Soviet Era Modernist Architecture:

I have to say I wasn't very successful on finding those buildings I saw last time. But I did find others I didn't see. Perhaps with the car tomorrow I will see if I can find the others....

For those Architects old enough to remember our Frazer Reekie Architectural Draftmanship book, this is THE archetypal modernist building showing how to show shadowing to buildings..... 

Reminiscent of 30's art deco modernism..

Lithuanian Arts Centre:

This is the Lithuanian Arts Centre, designed in 1980 and refurbished 10 years ago.. An ultra rigorous modernist building that is located on a great site overlooking the river...

The poured resin floor is 'seamless'.. :)

Lithuanian National Opera and Ballet

I came across this close to the centre; finished in 1974, unfortunately it was closed today but the central spaces including the triple height breakout space looks amazing from the outside...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithuanian_National_Opera_and_Ballet_Theatre

I sneaked into the first level; this looks like one of the bars...

Pictures from other sources....