Friday, 30 August 2019

THOUGHTS & REFLECTIONS 

PART 1: PLACES VISITED

Before the trip becomes a haze of memories I thought I would set down a number of random items that could be developed over time..



FAVOURITE PLACES VISITED

Before I get into trouble and not mention other people's favourites, all the places I visited were great; that is why I chose them in the first place. 
A number I didn't spend sufficient time to make a real judgement so these will be on my next journey to visit again.

In no order.....

Dresden
I knew some history of the city and its devastation at the end of WW2. I hadn't expected such a city centre, both Neustadt and Altstadt, that has been transformed during the past 30 years. The transformation is a mix of historical re-constructions and new contemporary infills. This works well as it gives a sense of historical continuity to the centre.
While most tourists with limited time will stay and visit Alstadt, I loved the Neustadt area and in particular the river frontage and the public events being staged; sitting on the grass in the evening as the sun went down and joining locals enjoying a summer evening together....
In what I was able to see, the care and quality of the city re-construction is exemplary... It appears that re-construction, to re-build and re-generate the urban fabric, has been considered to last for the long term and not just for immediate short term commercial goals that blights British cities.
If you have a little more time, I would suggest staying in Dresden and then travelling by train to Prague, a journey time of approximately 140 minutes... but if you are in Prague do the opposite.... 
Dresden isn't on the British tourist map yet (which is a bonus).. Many more American voices than British voices... also a few Russians and Serbians too.....







Krakow
I had driven from Warsaw and arrived through the outer reaches of the city to the centre even getting as far as the actual pedestrian centre before having to extricate myself through a park and being stopped by the police. 
The inner suburbs between the outskirts and the centre reflect the on-going investment quandaries that all current cities have; the role of private/public partnerships and new ideas on how to re-generate existing building stock. 

The old city centre is small compared with Warsaw and other European cities but its history and compactness encapsulates the story of Poland. This is a tourist destination where the streets are thronged with people during the evening but without the large groups that Prague suffers from. 
I was also lucky to find a wonderful apartment at short notice after leaving the booked hotel after one night. This made such a lot of difference to my visit. 





Salzburg
I had chosen an apartment just on the edge of the city where the city and countryside separate.. but only a short bus journey into the centre. Having spent a week in the centre of Vienna, I reasoned a few days close to mountains as well as the historic centre would be the best of both worlds; it was....

The historic centre is small and nestles between rock outcrops and split by the Salzach.
The views from the castle and Kapuzinerberg are wonderful. 
While I was there, I watched Tom Cruse running across the roofs in 'Knight & Day'.. and while not so agile as Tom... I probably did get to see more of the city than he did...

Travelling up the Untersbergbahn cable car and breaking through the cloud cover I will remember for a long time as well as the drive into the lakes and mountains to reach Bad Goisern and the Hallstatt... 






 


Munich
This just makes in on the list even though I really needed more time to see all of the city... a place to re-visit.  There are many facets to Munich which need a much longer stay to explore and understand but I've made a start. 
Many memories.... the modern church, the NS-Dokumentationszentrum, the museum quarter, the Victuals Market and the drive out to visit the former Olympic Stadium and the BMW museum. 












Vilnius
I liked the relaxed but optimistic outlook that the inner city pervaded. The tree lined streets, the accessibility and proposed redevelopment of the river bank for all and the mix of contemporary, post war and historic buildings all seem to co-exist without altering the overall sense of place. 
I will have to visit the city again to find the post war buildings glimpsed during my first visit.








Budapest
Driving into Buda and emerging onto the Danube riverfront was one of the highlights of my trip. 
This alternate imperial capital, heavily damaged at the end of WW2, encapsulates the history of Hungary since the mid 19C.  
My visit coincided with the hottest period of my travel; 38 degrees but I always found some shade to hide in. The best was under a canopy of a restaurant (Dubarry) fronting the Danube on the Pest side in the evening, with trams regularly running past and boats plying up and down the Danube; a cold Martini (gin, not vodka of course..) watching the sun set below the hill of Buda.
Andrassy Avenue, with the S3 underground line below, linking the inner city with the Szechenyi Thermal Baths was another highlight..









PLACES TO RE-VISIT

Bratislava
My onward journey to Budapest only allowed an evening in Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. Given its historical importance and close proximity to Vienna, it is a place to explore again.. including the Carpathian Mountains. Also not so many tourists....





Beograd
On my final morning, I met Aleks in a cafe looking over the city; how green it looked. Beograd. I would like to visit the city again and spend more time looking at how the city is situated between the Sava and Danube, explore 'the new city' on the opposite side of the Sava and also use Beograd as the springboard to visit the mountainous country south of the city. 
Meeting Spring Studios was also a wonderful opportunity to listen to committed architects protective of their city and culture.








WHERE NEXT?........

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